Kirk Street of Culross

During a recent trip to attend a family wedding in Scotland, I had the good pleasure of visiting the small town of Culross along the north shore of the Firth of Forth. Its abbey and church share the same name, Culross. Much of the original structure of Culross Abbey is now in ruins, but the present day parish church still operates within its walls, as congregations have in a mostly uninterrupted fashion since its founding. There has been a Christian settlement in this area since the 5th century, beginning as a Celtic Christian church.

St Servanus (more commonly known as St. Serf) was one of the early Celtic monks who settled in Culross. Like the “white monks” of Ireland, such as Columba, they lived an itinerant life. St. Serf eventually put down roots in Culross, one of the bookend towns on the ancient pilgrimage path to St. Andrews.

The story goes that one day St. Serf came upon a young woman on the seashore with her newly-born son. She and the baby had been left for dead by a family that would not, could not support them. But now the story thickens. We have already noticed the liminal domain of the seashore, life hanging on by a thread at the edge. What happens next at this critical boundary confirms everything we know about the most important things of life, how they transpire and emerge at the liminal boundaries.

St. Serf offered them shelter and took them in as a part of his extended community. The young boy, Kentigern, grew and eventually became a devoted disciple. If St. Serf occupies an exalted status in the early lore of Culross, Kentigern has no less.

Culross Abbey East Door

Kentigern, commonly known as Mungo, migrated to Glasgow where he was well known in bringing the Christian story and community to that place and people. In fact, the Glasgow Cathedral is dedicated to Mungo. His remains are interred there.

From abandoned baby to new family to position of influence for others, Mungo embodied the story of the transformed life, from death to life and beyond. He was assisted by a liminal guide, St. Serf. And in his wandering itinerancy found the place where he was destined to belong, Glasgow.

When wandering the grounds of Mungo Cathedral today, worshipping in the much later building that holds Mungo’s name in high honor, the spirit of this founding story is felt. For we are all, every one, recipients of strange grace at the borderlands.